![]() Build volume: 145mm horizontal x 145mm depth x 175mm length, it is bigger than the Form1+, but you will soon need bigger.You will therefore find some remarks added to some specifications. It is extremely important to think beyond these figures. The Form2 is an evolution of the Form1+’s process and similar characteristics are found on paper. Keep your boxes where possible, you will need them in case of returns. Think of buying IPA alcohol in advance as it is difficult to find in reasonable quantities and price depending of the country you are located, and the delivery time can block you from doing your first productions. You will only need to buy IPA alcohol for cleaning and top price paper towels in large quantities. Pec-Pad and antistatic cloth to clean the optical section of the printer.Miscellaneous tools (spatula, precision pliers, cutting pliers and special spatula to peel prints off).A support to hold the build platform while peeling the prints off.1L of resin of the type chosen when ordering.The box contains all what you need to get started, namely: ![]() One of the two cardboard handles that goes under the printer makes it easy to take it out of the box. The cardboard is very thick with all the contents inside in order to protect the printer during transportation which is for me important as in France, delivery services don't really care of the packages. The Form2 packaging is heavy and there is much more boxes than for the Form1. The best choice is to learn to use both: FDM is perfect for making "draft" prints and SLA is rather suited to making final/production models (my choice). However, if you want to achieve precise and quality finish surfaces despite all the difficulties, go for SLA. If you want to get introduced to the world of 3D printing and print basic parts without breaking the bank, without too many constraints or print large (or very large!) parts, the FDM is perfect for you. In the end, deciding of which printing technique to use depends on the purpose of your prints. These printers are less permissive on the preparation of models. SLA is a technique that often offers a very high precision and an excellent surface finish, but printers are more expensive, as are the consumables, and you have to be very meticulous about preparing your 3D model. On the other hand, the printing quality and most importantly, the precision can be quite different from those offered by the SLA. The DLP is a variant of the SLA that uses a video projector instead of a laser to cure the resin.įDM has the advantage of being permissive on 3D models and the 3D printing process with inexpensive consumables and affordable printers. There are two categories of affordable 3D “desktop” printing techniques: FDM, which consists of melting a plastic wire along a precise path, and SLA, which consists of curing a photosensitive resin by passing a laser beam along an even more precise path. Without going into the details, it is important to understand some techniques and basic 3D printing jargon, especially if you are not an industry specialist. Overview of SLA 3D printing and Formlabs printers This post describes my use of the Form2 for several months. Since then, I have bought my own printer. The Form 2 tested was graciously on loan by Formlabs. That is why I have quickly turned to the Formlabs printer for the SLA and the Ultmaker 2+ Extended for the FDM. Above all, I care for the detail accuracy and the surface finish. I use the printer to print figurines, scanned models and prototype-like models, with a slightly more focus on jewelry, product design and even functional parts. A multi-part head, 25 micron printing with gray V3 resin.
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